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Bonding: What to Expect,
What to Do
Circling
& chasing
Be sure they are in a SMALL, neutral area such as a bathroom
or penned area. Stop the chasing. Place them side by side. Try
feeding them treats together. Try car rides in a box together.
Sometimes loud noises or being sprayed with a water bottle are
enough to make the chasing stop. A little dab of peanut butter
on each others head may instigate grooming.
True
aggressive fighting
Separate buns and try again later. Try taking them for a car
ride together in a box and back to a neutral place. Supervise
closely. Check for wounds. Try another rabbit if this aggressive
fighting persists. Call an HRS volunteer.
Ignoring
each other
As long as they are not fighting, this
is a good thing! If they are coexisting in their neutral space,
this is typical and a good start. They will begin to sit closer,
sleep near each other and eat
together shortly. Leave them in a small neutral space a bit longer.
Try to wait for a little grooming.
Grooming
This is GREAT! Their relationship will
probably continue to blossom from this point. Leave them in a
neutral place for a few more days to continue the bonding, then
SLOWLY introduce them to freedom in the house together. DO NOT
SEPARATE THEM ONCE THEY ARE BONDED.
REMEMBER: HRS volunteers can help you through
the tough times. Call our hotline and ask to speak with someone
experienced with bonding rabbits. 916-863-9690.

Bonding
Tips and Tricks
Like any relationship, a new pairing of
rabbits can be slow to develop or be love at first sight. Almost
all rabbits can work out their differences and enjoy the companionship
of another rabbit. Still, the process of bonding two rabbits
will take time, patience, commitment and a little work on your
part.
The following tips are from HRS volunteers
who have matched up many, many rabbits over the years.
- Relax!
Take a deep breath and relax. If you are a nervous wreck, the
rabbits will be, too.
- Males & females
We seem to have the best luck in pairing neutered males with
spayed females. Usually the males appear to be dominant at first
with their excessive mounting. The female will put up with this
for a short while, but will usually assert her dominance by mounting
the male or nipping him to show she is the one in charge. At
this point, the male usually backs down and they start on the
road to friendship. Same-sex pairing is not out of the question,
but requires at least one submissive rabbit in the group and
a little more patience on your part.

- Spaying & neutering
It is considerably easier if BOTH rabbits in the pairing have
been fixed. In fact, you may not be successful with the match
if they are not. Once fixed, you are working with temperaments
and personalities, not hormones and uncontrolled desires! If
the rabbits are newly altered, (6 months or less) they may still
be quite amorous towards each other. This behavior should dissipate
the longer they are fixed. Please see our handout "Altering
your Rabbit's Future" for more reasons to alter your companion
rabbit and for our list of recommended veterinarians.
- Time
Although the average length of time until most rabbits are pretty
well bonded is about one week, we have seen rabbits take as little
as one afternoon or as long as many months to become friends.
Neutral territory is imperative. YOU MUST put the rabbits (and
keep the rabbits) in a small, neutral area for about one week.
Beginning the bonding in a small, neutral territory is vital
to this relationship working out. A kitchen, bathroom, or portable
exercise pen all work well. DO NOT put them in a cage together
until they have been getting along perfectly for several days.
If a serious fight breaks out in a cage, it is generally difficult
to separate them.

- Fighting, nipping & mounting
Although these behaviors may look similar to you, they are all
very different and it is important to recognize the different
ways rabbits speak. Fighting is usually an instantly, purposely
vicious attack. Rabbits sometimes attack the other rabbit's face,
underside or genital area. DO NOT separate the rabbits unless
they are truly fighting. Every time you separate the rabbits,
you will have to re-introduce them, making this process take
even longer.
Nipping at each other in a playful manner is not usually serious
and is done for several reasons. Remember, rabbits sometimes
communicate by nipping and this could be done to say "Hey,
pay attention to me" or "Who are you?" and "Get
out of my litterbox!" This too should dissipate as they
learn how to approach and communicate with their new partner.
Both sexes may mount each other. Although mounting can escalate
into circling, which could develop into a little fight, mounting
usually dissipates after the first week and is only for the sake
of asserting dominance. It is important to allow the rabbits
this very important part of their courtship. Be watchful of backwards
mounting, though. We have had a couple of serious nips in one's
most vital areas! If your rabbits are mounting each other a lot,
instigating fights, stop them, DO NOT SEPARATE them; place them
side by side. Pet them together and talk to them quietly. Do
not let too much chasing ensue.
Check your rabbits for injuries each day even if they appear
to be getting along well.
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