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Fleas on Rabbits
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Depending on conditions (where you live,
whether your rabbits are allowed outside, whether you have other
animals, and whether the effects El Nino and El Nina are truly
history), you may be wondering if the impending flea season is
going to affect your furry family.
Flea treatments are a common concern of
rabbit owners - what's the best way to get rid of them, without
risking harm to your bunny? We did some checking around - and
consulted with our own Dr. Marianne Brick of the Madison Avenue
Veterinary Clinic - to find out what's out there, what works
and what doesn't.
Unfortunately, it's not as simple as it
seems; when it comes to determining the "best" products
on the market, it seems that the jury is still out among even
the most educated veterinarians. Many non-rabbit-savvy vets will
tell concerned rabbit owners that any product that is approved
kittens can be used on a rabbit, and that this is the best way
to go. STOP! This is not necessarily true. Following is a list
of some of the most common ways of treating fleas, and the arguments
for and against them.
- Flea powders. Dust your rabbit with 5% carbaryl insecticide
(a common brand name is 5% Sevin Dust) working the dust down
through Bunny's thick fur to the skin. Bunny might try to lick
some of it off; assuming he doesn't go overboard, this is probably
all right. Most of the powder is just a carrier agent, and there's
very little of the active ingredient in the mix. Another important
warning from the San Diego HRS: "There are "all natural"
flea powders sold at many pet and health food stores and in catalogs.
These powders mainly contain pennyroyal (very poisonous), peppermint,
eucalyptus or other herbs. Do not assume that these are safe
just because they are in a health food store or are herbal. Herbs
and "natural" products contain chemicals, such as the
chrysanthemum derivative pyrethrin, designed to kill insects
or fungi; they can also have lethal effects on mammals. Some
of these herbs may even be safe for humans to eat, but can kill
rabbits."
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- Flea dips (baths).
Some grooming houses (and even vets) will do this upon request,
but it is highly discouraged by the HRS. According to HRS founder
and director Marinell Harriman, "We have never recommended
a flea dip for rabbits, and recently we received a very alarming
report of a death occurring after a flea shampoo, followed by
a pyrethrin dip. We cannot be certain as to the specific cause
of death -- the stress of the bath or the ingredients in the
shampoo or dip - so we recommend avoiding both."
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- Flea combs.
This approach alone probably won't solve the problem, but it's
definitely an important part of the equation. Be sure to check
around the ears and legs for places where fleas might hide. Drown
captured fleas in water or alcohol.
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- Flea collars. Don't even think about trying this approach.
Not only do rabbits hate restraints around their necks, but remember
that most flea collars are treated with a chemical dose that
is measured for much heavier animals (dogs and cats). A potential
quick fix isn't worth the risk of accidental overdose.
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- Room sprays.
According to the HRS national office, this may be the best way
to go. A good flea spray can kill fleas and eggs in a room for
up to six months after treatment. These are available at grocery
or hardware stores and are safe for animals, as long as the animals
are removed from the room during treatment and kept out of the
area for 24 hours following the spray. Be sure to read the specific
directions on the back of the can.
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- Upkeep and housecleaning. It may seem like a silly point to make, but prevention
really is the best approach. Regular vacuuming and occasional
steam-cleaning will help keep down the risk of flea infestation
and contribute substantially to your bunnies' comfort. Have your
carpet annually treated with sodium polyborate (boric acid) or
fenoxycarb (an insect growth regulator in the form of a synthetic
hormone).
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- What about topical products,
such as Advantage or Frontline?
Topical products are gel-like substances that come in little
pre-measured tubes. You apply the solution to your pet's neck,
and you don't have to treat the household or surrounding areas.
But before you try this approach, make sure you know what you
are buying! Advantage, made by Bayer, is the only topical
product that is tried and tested safe for rabbits. Dr. Brick
says that Advantage is "a lot less hassle than the other
stuff," and adds that she considers it a safe product for
adult bunnies (she has seen only rare topical reactions from
using Advantage, and even then, it was nothing serious). In general,
a very small or dwarf rabbit should be treated with half of a
pre-filled tube; bigger rabbits can be given a full dose. Because
it takes a while for such topical flea treatments to disseminate
through a dog or cat's coat, the HRS recommends that rabbits
be kept apart from other animals that have been treated for at
least 12 hours. Check with your veterinarian for specifics.
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Whatever you do, don't try to save money
by buying a cheap knock-off of Advantage. Similar-looking
products, such as Bio-Spot by Hartz, can be purchased in the
grocery store, but those products contain permythrin, which can
make cats have seizures. "I wouldn't even chance it with
a rabbit," says Dr. Brick. Frontline, by Rhone Merieux Inc.,
is also considered highly unsafe for bunnies. Even the manufacturer
has admitted that this product can cause "adverse reactions"
in rabbits.
Dr. Brick says you will likely never find
a product that is marketed especially for rabbits, simply because
it wouldn't be cost-effective for manufacturers to focus on such
a small group of pet owners. However, she points out, many of
these cat-and-dog products are first tested on rabbits, prior
to being approved and mass-manufactured. If in doubt about any
particular product or approach, of course, the safest and smartest
thing to do is to consult your veterinarian to double-check.
If you have no choice but to use products
not recommended here, there are often 800 phone numbers on the
package of over-the-counter products. You should call these numbers
to ensure that the product is safe for rabbits. This number should
also provide antidote information should it become necessary.
If the rabbit has an adverse reaction, you should wash the treatment
from the skin with mild shampoo & soap, then take the rabbit
to the vet. At the vet the rabbit will be given IV fluids to
help rid the chemicals from their system.
Check out extensive information from our
San Diego Chapter:
Dangers of Frontline product
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This page is dedicated
to the memory of Peaches; a beautiful, brave, sweet, & spirited
girl who faced one too many close calls during her short life.
Site credits
Copyright © 2003 Sacramento House Rabbit Society
PO Box 19850, Sacramento, CA 95819-08501
(916) 863-9690
Last updated February 14, 2005 |